How To Choose Cologne
Many of our clients ask us after we’ve got them set up with an awesome new wardrobe and grooming routine, “What about cologne?”. Now that they’ve upgraded things, they think some fragrance might help. They’re right. Here’s the complete guide on getting set up with a great cologne you’ll love that will get you compliments left and right.
Should Men Wear Cologne?
Let’s start with the obvious question: should you even wear fragrance?
There are many reasons to, but I always recommend having at least one, even if you only wear it for special occasions. Personally, I wear some kind of fragrance every day. I like to think of it as an invisible accessory. Cologne can be the cherry on top of a great-looking outfit.
Cologne is not just a scent; it's a statement. It leaves a lasting impression, becoming your 'signature' that people remember you by. It's a way to express your personality and style, whether you prefer a woody, fresh, or spicy fragrance.
In short, have something you can wear, even if it’s only for nights out. The social and psychological benefits should provide you with enough reasons. Many guys end up loving the fact they smell good (who wouldn’t), and a small addition is born. Either way, get started by owning at least one cologne you love.
Cologne, Germany
What is Cologne? (Probably not what you think)
Nowadays, almost everyone refers to the fragrances men wear as “cologne.” This isn’t entirely accurate. Cologne is actually a type of fragrance, that originated in Cologne, Germany. It’s typically lighter and fresher than other fragrances.
Over time, marketing and advertising companies have used the term “cologne” to signify any male fragrance and “perfume” to denote any female fragrance. This was done presumably to create less confusion on the consumers' end. While we’ll use the terms interchangeably here, and it’s expected to hear the term “cologne,” it’s helpful for you to know the difference.
I like using the term “men’s fragrance” to encompass all the different options. Let’s discuss those other options so we can choose the one that’s right for you.
Understanding Types of Cologne
All fragrances are categorized based on their concentration of aromatic oil (perfume). Some fragrances will be weaker, others stronger. Knowing this can help you understand how much to use and what to look for when purchasing something. Here are the main types of fragrances you’ll come across…
Parfum
Concentration: 20-30% or more perfume oil.
Longevity: 8-12 hours or more.
Intense, concentrated, and expensive. Mainly for evenings out. A little here goes a long way.
Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Concentration: 15-20% perfume oil.
Longevity: 6-8 hours.
Intense but not overpowering, this can work well both day and night, but you still want to be careful not to spray too much.
Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Concentration: 5-15% perfume oil.
Longevity: 4-6 hours.
Characteristics: The most popular choice on the market, this works great for a daily wearer around the office and can be reapplied throughout the day/night.
There are more than these, but these are the main three. The majority of choices are EDTs.
An EDT is an excellent choice if you’re just getting started. They’re typically not as expensive, and if you screw up and over-apply it, it’s not going to smell as strong.
How To Choose The Right Cologne
Fragrance is a very personal thing, and there is no one-size-fits-all solution (although I’ll give you some of the crowd favorites towards the end).
You want to base your choice around three things:
1. Your personal scent preferences
You will instantly be attracted to certain smells and turned off by others. Choose something your nose keeps coming back to that you enjoy. You’re the one wearing it all day.
2. Your style and personality
If you’re a rugged rock n’ roll star, smelling of fresh-cut lilies and lemon might not be congruent with your style or personality. Choose something that aligns with who you are. If you’re more outgoing, something spicier works well. If you’re more conservative, something fresh and clean.
3. The weather
In the warmer months, you should wear light, fresh, airy scents. In the cooler months, rich, warm, spicy scents work well.
The goal is to marry all these elements to get your perfect scent.
I would NOT recommend choosing a cologne based just on what women like. You should be wearing cologne that YOU want, and that matches YOUR style, not just a random recommendation from a woman in your life. To prove my point, look at this thread on what fragrances women love on men.
If you didn’t look, I’ll summarize: It’s almost impossible to decipher the 15-page thread. There are endless amounts of opinions flying around. Some women prefer woody scents, while others prefer a fresh and clean fragrance. There is absolutely no conclusion, nor should there be.
At the end of the day, some people won’t particularly love your chosen scent, and that’s okay. This is why, much like your clothing style, you should choose something that aligns with who you are and what you like rather than running around in circles trying to please everyone.
Shopping For Colognes
Start by testing some options from some good brands. You’re more likely to find something good if you start with brands that produce good stuff. Here are some brands we like that you can easily find.
Creed
Tom Ford
Masion Margiela
Mason Francis Kirkjuian
Clive Christian
Byredo
Parfums de Marly
Kilian Paris
Dior
There are many more options out there, but these are some that you can find easily. Looking at what these brands offer can give you a leg up when shopping. However, we’ll shortcut the selection process even further for you next.
The next step is to smell some colognes and narrow things down in person. Getting to any decent department store will give you a wide range of options to choose from, as well as knowledgeable store associates who can help.
Typically, a place like Bloomingdales, Nordstrom, or Neiman Marcus will have many options for you to sample. They’re also generally good about making you some complimentary samples should you want to take something home to try; more on this later.
Testing and Sampling Colognes
Now that you’ve made your way into a store, it’s time to start sampling. Start with some of the brands we recommended, as well as the top seller list below, and from there, narrow it down using the following steps.
Grab some of the fragrance testing strips, otherwise known as “blotters,” lying around the counter and start spraying. Just a couple of sprays on a strip will do. Hold it up to your nose, close your eyes to narrow your senses, and give it a whiff.
Try to go off of your first reaction, and don’t overthink it. You might not like it a lot, and that’s okay; just keep going. If you need a break, smelling the coffee beans they typically have lying around or your own skin can help reset you.
When you find a cologne you like, make a note, and set the bottle aside or set the test strip next to the bottle to keep track of what you’ve enjoyed as you test stuff.
Once you’ve gone through between 10-20 fragrances, you should have a good sample size. Try to narrow down your selection to your top 2-4. Once you do, we’re going to take it a level deeper.
It’s now time to smell it on your skin. Your skin chemistry can significantly change how a fragrance smells. The oils in your skin, its pH level, and your own natural scent will alter the fragrance in a positive or negative way. Only once you know what you like initially should you conduct a test on your skin.
Give one spray of each to different areas on your inner forearm and let it sit for a second. Smell each one after you spray, and see if it changes your perception. After doing this test, you’ll usually come away with a favorite. Take note of the other finalists in case you want to come back to try them later.
If you still can’t decide, try to narrow it down to two. Once you do, ask the store associate if they can kindly make you a sample of each of those two fragrances. They will usually be happy to assist you with this. It’s good practice to get a business card from them so you can email, call, or return to the store to have them order it for you, as nearly every store associate works off of commission.
Now, you can live with those fragrances for a bit. Wear one a day and see how you like it throughout the time you wear it. You can also get some opinions from your partner or friends who might be willing to lend a nose. After the small testers have run out, you’re almost guaranteed to have a winner. Pull the trigger on purchasing a full-size bottle. I usually recommend starting with the smallest size in case you change your mind later or begin collecting bottles.
If you want to shortcut all of this shopping, don’t care much about finding something perfect, and just want to smell decent, I’d recommend getting a cologne sample kit with several small sample bottles you can try. You’re not going to get as many options, and they typically don’t have the best options within the kit, but you’ll find something serviceable that you like. Once you identify which fragrance you like the best, make a purchase of a full bottle. Here’s an example of a cologne sampler kit you can use.
Finding a Cologne You Love
Now that you have an idea of what you like from the options you narrowed down, we can easily find other options you may like based on those.
Head to Fragrantica.com and type in the fragrance(s) you narrowed down. You’ll see that they give you a breakdown of the fragrance notes. This gives you a good idea of the types of scents you’re drawn to. For example, I prefer spicy and woody fragrances based on looking at most of the cologne I own. When I purchase cologne in the future, that’s what I will look for.
The second cool thing this site offers is its “Fragrance Finder.” When you type in the name of a fragrance, it will use its algorithm to suggest other fragrances you might like. This will give you a few suggestions for what to try next time you’re on the hunt for something new.
How To Apply Fragrance
Now that you own a good cologne, you should know how to apply it correctly, as most guys mess this up.
When you apply fragrance, only apply it to your skin rather than your clothing, as doing so can stain fabrics and negatively alter the smell.
You want to apply your cologne to “pulse points”—areas of the body where the blood veins run closer to the skin so that more heat is generated. This helps your fragrance “project” more and release all of the different scent notes. Typical points of application are the wrists, neck, and inner elbows.
When spraying your cologne, keep the bottle 6-10 inches away from the spot you want to apply it, ensuring it covers the area evenly.
Contrary to what you may have seen other people do, don't rub in the fragrance. This can change the fragrance's molecular structure and alter how it smells and develops over time.
How Much Cologne To Use
How much cologne you apply depends on the strength of the fragrance. There are many different fragrance levels, and the amount you spray should be in line with the strength of the cologne. Here’s a guide…
Eau de Toilette (EDT): Contains roughly 5-15% perfume oil. Apply 3-4 sprays.
Eau de Parfum (EDP): Contains roughly 15-20% perfume oil. Apply 2-3 sprays.
Parfum: This has the highest concentration at around 20-30% or more. Apply 1-2 sprays.
The goal is never to overwhelm others with your fragrance. When in doubt, start with less. You can always add more. This is especially true if you’re heading to a more conservative office setting. If you apply fragrance for a night out, adding an extra spray is fine.
Also, you may have to apply more throughout the day as the fragrance wears off, especially if you’re wearing a lighter scent like an EDT. Fragrance will typically last 4-8+ hours, depending on the strength.
Top Picks For Cologne
Here are some top picks for getting started that are easy to find. To help you further, we’ll categorize these based on different types of scents.
You may already have an idea of what types of scents you like or would be drawn to.
Similarly, if you like a fragrance you already own, you can plug it into Fragrantica’s system and identify its type to gain more clarity.
Let’s dive into some suggestions.
Fresh + Clean
Acqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani
L'Eau d'Issey Pour Homme by Issey Miyake
Spicy + Woody
Green + Herbal
Warm + Spicy
Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb
Armani Code Profumo
A well-chosen cologne is genuinely an invisible accessory. It makes you feel polished and put together when wearing it, and if you’re wearing something you love, you’ll actually enjoy putting it on and getting a whiff throughout the day.
Using the framework above, identify yourself a great signature sent you love and add it as the finishing touch to your outfits to help you elevate things even further.
Hope this helps.
X Patrick